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City trip Marseille – salt air, bright stone, and a restless port

René Koenig
Founder & Owner of GERMENS artfashion

Marseille doesn’t whisper. The air tastes faintly of salt, shutters rattle when the wind shifts, and the sun turns pale stone into something almost white-hot at noon. Then, later, the light softens and the whole city feels like it’s exhaling for a moment before picking up speed again.

When I want a quick sense of where I am, I open Marseille once and then let the street do the rest. Did you know that Zinedine Zidane comes from the city? Football legend, World Cup winner, and a name people still say with a kind of respect.

Vieux-Port in the morning: noise, gulls, and the first detours

Start at the Vieux-Port because it tells you what Marseille runs on: boats, voices, metal, coffee, and a constant flicker of movement. Along the water you catch the daily rhythm – fishermen talking over each other, tourists slowing down, locals cutting straight through. The masts make a thin forest against the sky, and the city rises behind them like an amphitheatre of windows and balconies.

From here, Marseille is made for walking: up toward the Canebière, back down to the quay, across a street that suddenly smells like spices and soap, then back to the sea again. This is where I appreciate a long-sleeve button-up: it reads a bit more “dressed” than a T-shirt without feeling overdressed, and it handles wind, shade, and sudden sun better than you’d think. And I don’t insist on one shirt all day – I like carrying a spare, rolled tight and compact in my bag, so I can switch for dinner or photos.

Le Panier: stairs, laundry lines, and quiet courtyards

Le Panier changes the scale. Streets narrow, steps pull you upward, and laundry lines cut across the air like small flags. The colours feel worn-in rather than loud – ochre, dusty blue, sun-faded green on a door that has seen decades. You pause without planning to, because the neighbourhood forces you to slow down and listen: a conversation drifting from one window to another, a delivery van squeezed into a street that was never designed for it.

Somewhere on those steps, you notice the social side of clothing. In a shirt you get addressed differently – more questions, more eye contact, a slightly more courteous tone in certain places. That’s why I keep an eye on shirts for city travel: spontaneous museum stop, a better restaurant, even a theatre ticket you didn’t expect – a shirt is simply more widely accepted than a T-shirt, and you don’t instantly read as the typical tourist.

Up to the “Bonne Mère”: the city becomes a panorama

Sooner or later you look up and see that golden figure again, watching from the hill. The climb to Notre-Dame de la Garde feels like a clean cut in the day: fewer sounds, bigger streets, more sky. From the terrace, Marseille makes sense in one glance – the Old Port as a bright bowl, the islands blurred in haze, the Corniche drawing a thin line along the water, and beyond it the Mediterranean that sets the city’s mood.

Up here, the wind is in charge. A long sleeve helps with that – still comfortable even when it’s warm, and surprisingly useful when the air turns cooler in seconds. Cotton stays natural on skin, comfortable and durable for everyday wear, and it tends to remain odour-neutral after hours outside. On the shirt itself you feel small quality choices rather than loud branding: collar notch, angled cuffs, robust buttons, precise stitching, and a Kent collar with stainless collar stays – quietly reliable, not showy.

A cool hour by the sea: MuCEM and the reset button

When the sun gets too direct, a museum is less a checklist item and more a temperature change. The MuCEM sits at the entrance of the Old Port like a modern rock – dark lattice, open air, and the sea always nearby. You step inside, the noise drops, and after an hour you come back out as if someone adjusted the focus of the whole day.

Outside again, Marseille stacks old and new in quick succession: Fort Saint-Jean close by, the cathedral silhouette across the water, the port infrastructure, then a street that suddenly turns intimate. This is exactly the kind of city where a shirt is practical: you can walk, stop, enter a “better” place without thinking twice, and still feel like yourself rather than dressed up.

Corniche, Calanques, evening light: when Marseille opens outward

Late afternoon belongs to the Corniche. The sea isn’t just next to the city here – it’s its counterpoint: waves, rock, runners passing, people sitting on low walls doing nothing but watching. If you have time, even a short look toward the Calanques stays with you – those pale cliffs and the impossible blue. Back in town, the evening can turn into anything: a quiet bar, a walk back to the port in different light, or a simple pause that becomes the best part of the day. Mention it once and only once: this is the kind of place where a pastis tastes like it belongs.

In early summer, the Festival de Marseille can slip into your plans without warning – dance, concerts, performances scattered across the city, as if Marseille set up its own stage. Moments like that are why I prefer a button-up to a T-shirt: dressed, not stiff, and ready for a spontaneous change of setting.

I also keep the trip practical. I don’t force one shirt from morning to midnight – I pack a second one, roll it tight, and decide later whether I want to switch for dinner or a sharper look in photos. If sizing is uncertain, the try-on service makes it easy at home; if something should fit more precisely afterward, the modification service takes care of it. And if Marseille leaves salt, dust, or a dinner trace on the fabric, the care notes are the quick reference.

GERMENS shirts are designed by artists, with distinctive cuts – wearable art that doesn’t disappear in a city full of character. Sizes run from XS to 6XL, and if you want to start the trip without waiting, check the immediately available products. If it’s made to order, the details are clearly laid out in notes on products on manufacture.

Between port noise, hilltop wind, and that late, softened light, Marseille does what it does best: it nudges you into detours that feel like the real story – and you go home with a rhythm, not just a checklist.

René Koenig
Founder & Owner of GERMENS artfashion

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