Production of GERMENS® shirts and blouses

Insights into the production

GERMENS® shirts and blouses are unique and can be clearly distinguished from conventional blouses. But what is behind this extraordinary look? We will gladly reveal the secret for you.

GERMENS® shirts and blouses are designed and manufactured in a completely new way. Only specially woven fabrics are used, which are elaborately printed, finished, cut and sewn. Every single step is carefully carried out so that the result is perfect.

The graphic visualises the many complex steps that are necessary to produce a shirt or blouse from a cotton fibre that guarantees an incomparable appearance.

The cotton fabrics are woven

Cotton is the basic material for textile products and is divided into three quality levels: Short staple, medium staple, long staple and extra long staple. These differences are mainly due to the plant species, its growth and the local climate. Short staple cotton has shorter fibres and is used for coarser fabrics. Medium staple cotton has longer, finer fibres and is suitable for a variety of textiles. Long staple and extra long staple cotton are the highest quality varieties with the longest and finest fibres, ideal for fine fabrics and luxury fashion. Choosing the right quality of cotton is crucial to achieving the desired product properties. Cotton is a popular material in the textile industry due to its natural properties and versatility.

At GERMENS® we only use the finest and highest quality cotton - called long staple or extra long staple cotton. This usually comes from Egypt and is shipped to Europe, for example to Italy, where it is spun into yarn.

In the first production step, the warp is made from this yarn. To ensure high runnability and tensile strength, the warp is sized after completion. We are proud to use only the best materials for our GERMENS® products and thus guarantee the highest quality.

After the raw fabric is completely woven, it is carefully inspected by experts in the raw fabric inspection for possible faults. If there are any faults, they are marked to ensure that they are corrected in the further production process and are not found in the finished product.

As soon as quality control is complete, the next step is refinement. The first step here is singeing, where all lint and fibres are removed to make the fabric completely smooth and free of fibres. The fabric is then pre-bleached in cold bleach to create a perfect base for further finishing processes.

In the Lausitz region of Saxony, GERMENS® weaves excellent cotton fabrics that have been delighting customers all over the world for generations. The traditional company employs more than 170 people who work in 3 shifts 360 days a year to ensure the highest quality. In doing so, GERMENS® always relies on state-of-the-art technology that complies with all demanding European and German environmental regulations.

The weaving of the warp into the loom is done manually, followed by the processing of the weft yarn into a fabric. This work requires considerable skill and many years of professional practice to achieve an optimal result.

At GERMENS® our cottons are special. We have a special weaving machine that has been modified just for us to ensure that our processing procedures meet the highest technical requirements. Each piece of fabric is carefully woven to ensure it is of the highest quality and meets our customers' expectations. We pride ourselves on the fact that our cotton fabrics are unique and of the highest quality.

The fabric then goes into a massive washing machine to remove the sizing residues. These were applied to the warp before weaving and consist exclusively of natural potato starch. An absolutely environmentally friendly process!

After the sizing agent, the fabric is further treated before mercerisation. Mercerisation is a process for improving cotton fabrics. In this process, the fibres are dipped in caustic soda, which leads to a change in the fibre structure. The fabric becomes shinier, softer, stronger and absorbs dyes better. The treatment is followed by neutralisation and thorough cleaning to remove all chemicals. Mercerisation is used in the production of high-quality bed linen, shirts and other quality-conscious textiles.

After the stenter frame has been carefully prepared, the appropriate finishes are applied and the fabric is perfectly aligned to achieve a flawless flow. The fabric is then pulled onto the dock, which is a robust steel roller that securely winds the fabric. With this step, the fabric is ready for transport to the state-of-the-art textile print shop.

A textile stenter, in this context called a machine, is a device used in industrial textile production to stabilise and tighten fabrics during processing. These machines are essential in various stages of textile production, such as weaving, knitting, printing or embroidery, to name a few.

Textile printing and finishing - Made in Saxony

As soon as the goods reach our laboratory, the first step is a thorough inspection. This is the only way we can ensure that the textile pre-treatment meets the high requirements and has the desired quality.

Before production begins, the pre-treated fabric must first be impregnated on the stenter frame for digital printing, otherwise it cannot be printed. A special recipe with a variety of chemicals is applied to the fabric in the padder and then dried. This is the first step in production.

"Padder" in textile printing refers to a printing machine used for direct printing on fabrics such as silk, cotton and wool. Ink is applied to the fabric through engraved rollers to create different patterns. This technique offers high printing speeds and attention to detail, ideal for mass production and high quality prints.

Nowadays, padder is also used in digital textile printing, where it is used to apply pre-coatings to the fabric. These coatings improve print quality and ensure better adhesion of the ink to the fabric.

In the print data preparation department, continuous checks are made to ensure that the software settings remain optimal for flawless colour reproduction. At the same time, the data is prepared for printing and ripped for the digital printing press. Here, the utmost care is taken to achieve a flawless print result. This meticulous approach ensures that every print job is realised in the best quality and with brilliant colours.

The fabric is now printed with a special ink, whereby each individual piece is printed individually on the cotton fabric in order to later achieve a perfectly coordinated motif after the garment is made up. Compared to the continuous printing of patterns on the fabric, this process is much more elaborate, which is also reflected in the somewhat higher price of GERMENS shirts and blouses.

The next step in textile printing is to fix the dye in the steamer. Here it is important to ensure a defined steam atmosphere at 104°C as well as alkaline conditions and a dwell time of 8 min. This process is of great importance to ensure that the dye adheres permanently to the fabric and is not washed out or faded. Especially when using reactive or acid-based inks, steam fixation is an essential step.

The printed fabric is placed in the steamer where it is exposed to high temperatures and steam. The combination of heat and moisture causes the ink molecules to form a chemical reaction with the fabric's fibres and form a strong bond. This creates a long-lasting, wash-resistant colour that does not stain. The steaming process is thus an important step in ensuring high-quality textile production.

In order to remove the excess dyestuffs as well as the chemicals that are no longer needed, which accumulate during the preparation, the fabric passes through various washing baths. The temperatures reach up to 95°C. In the last step, the OB value is neutralised to achieve very good colour fastness.

In the next step, the fabric passes through the stenter frame again and is refined with synthetic resin and softeners. This achieves the desired properties such as excellent shrinkage values, ease of care and a pleasant feel. All chemicals used in the production process are ecologically tested, which makes it easy to obtain the Ökotex standard.

The Oeko-Tex Standard is a globally recognised certification that confirms that a textile product has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for humans and the environment. This testing includes numerous regulated and non-regulated substances that could potentially be harmful to human health. In addition, the Oeko-Tex Standard also takes into account sustainable production methods and working conditions in the textile and clothing industry.

Before shipping, the goods undergo a careful error check in the inspection room and are neatly rolled up for the garment maker. But that's not all: in the laboratory, the goods are checked for all quality parameters, such as width, weight, shrinkage values (shrinkage at 60°C washing) and colour fastness. With this comprehensive control, we ensure that only flawless and high-quality products leave our premises.

In the textile sector, the term "shrinkage" refers to the phenomenon in which a fabric or fibre contracts or deforms under the influence of heat, moisture or mechanical pressure. In the production of GERMENS fabrics, special emphasis is placed on ensuring that the material has low shrinkage behaviour in order to guarantee the dimensional accuracy and dimensional stability of the end products.

Once the fabric rolls are completely made, they are carefully packed and collected by GERMENS®. René König personally takes care of this process, as the fabric rolls are invaluable and have to be brought to the sewing factory, 370 km away, by the end of the day.

Analysis of textile-printed GERMENS® cotton fabrics

We commissioned a fabric analysis via an independent laboratory from the company Zschimmer & Schwarz and the results are impressive. The laboratory test showed that our GERMENS® cotton fabrics have outstanding washfastness at 60°C and the colours achieve top marks. When using detergents without bleach (colour detergents), the colours remain intense and durable for many years without washing out or discolouring. We are proud that our garments still look like new even after many washes.

GERMENS® fabrics are unique and impressive with their striking surfaces in bright colours, clear designs and delicate lines. Through years of work, we have constantly improved our fabrics and can now present a quality that is incomparable in colour reproduction, sharpness and feel.

Manual cutting and assembly

GERMENS® unique approach to shirt and blouse production has given our product its special character. Unlike most colourful shirts and blouses, which are mass-produced and have surface patterning printed in a continuous repeat, GERMENS® carefully places each pattern, illustration and gradient on each of the 21 individual pieces.

This intricate process requires a special manufacturing method that ranges from fabric weaving to manual cutting and sewing. Unlike traditional shirts, where the fabrics are layered in many layers and cut out by machine, each cut on GERMENS® is done by hand to ensure the precise placement of the pattern.

This special approach means that every GERMENS® shirt and blouse is unique, made with great attention to detail and in compliance with high standards in terms of the materials used and working conditions. So you can be sure that you will receive a quality product that is not only eye-catching but will also give you pleasure for a long time.

As soon as we pick up the fabric rolls from the textile print shop, we immediately take them to the sewing room. There, René König takes over the control and carefully checks each roll content. A smooth workflow is our top priority and we ensure that the fabric rolls can be processed as quickly as possible.

To ensure smooth and successful production, it is essential that the department heads meet for a work meeting. Because only through close cooperation and clear communication can all the necessary steps be coordinated effectively. The joint meeting makes it possible to identify potential problems at an early stage and to work out solutions. In addition, all those involved can contribute their perspectives and ideas in order to shape production in the best possible way. Such a working meeting is thus an important step to ensure productive cooperation and successful production.

First, an initial rough sketch of the design sections is made, based on which precise cutting templates are meticulously placed on the fabrics. All cutting lines are marked by hand and with the utmost care using tailor's chalk to ensure a perfect final result. A unique GERMENS® long-sleeved shirt requires a total of 21 precisely cut individual pieces, resulting in an immense amount of time. However, this extremely elaborate procedure results in an excellent fit as well as a distinctive design.

GERMENS distinguishes itself from other shirt manufacturers through an elaborate, individual cutting process. Unlike machine-made shirts and blouses, at GERMENS each piece is tailored, numbered and carefully sorted by hand. Although this process is laborious, the highest quality and accuracy of fit is guaranteed. GERMENS places great emphasis on craftsmanship and unique products that stand out from the crowd.mmeriert und sortiert.

After all the fabric parts have been cut with the utmost precision, the next step of the production process begins. The carefully cut and numbered components are brought by an employee to the work tables of the experienced seamstresses.

In this phase, the work is deliberately divided up to make the process as efficient as possible while ensuring quality. Each seamstress specialises in certain aspects of the construction - some focus on sewing collars and cuffs, for example, others on attaching buttons and buttonholes.

This division of labour allows each seamstress to contribute her specific skills and experience, which in turn leads to high quality and a perfect result. In addition, this method allows for close quality control throughout the process, as each seamstress can closely inspect the pieces she makes.

The impressive variety of designs in an abundance of colours requires an extensive selection of yarns. These are carefully matched to the colour tones of the shirt to create a harmonious overall look. The high standards of quality and aesthetics are reflected in every single detail and make the heart of every fashion lover beat faster.

At the end of the detailed manufacturing process, which is based on precision craftsmanship, all the carefully cut and sewn pieces are assembled into a complete shirt or blouse. Every aspect of the garment is carefully matched and assembled to create a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing product.

Each GERMENS garment is made by hand, which requires a high level of skill, concentration and perseverance. The experienced seamstresses bring all their skills to every step of the process to ensure that each finished shirt or blouse meets the high quality standards.

The value of a shirt or blouse is not only determined by the design and materials, but also by the precise manufacturing. Every detail, every seam and every button is proof of the care and craftsmanship that went into making it. This makes each garment a unique piece that is both a fashion statement and a testament to the art and craft of textile manufacturing.

After completing the careful sewing process, the next important step is ironing the shirts and blouses. This process is essential to ensure the perfect fit and aesthetic appearance of the garments. Ironing not only smooths out wrinkles and ensures a clean, neat appearance, but also helps to release any remaining tension in the fabric. It is another step that is carried out with care and attention to ensure the high quality of GERMENS garments.

The shirts and blouses are carefully folded, fixed with practical clips and lovingly wrapped in tissue paper. The result is a top-quality product that has undergone an elaborate and detailed manufacturing process. Approximately 8-12 weeks pass from creation to completion, which are used with dedication and meticulousness in the service of the highest quality.

The production of this high-quality shirt is the result of a sophisticated overall procedure consisting of numerous individual steps. It took several years to develop, improve and fine-tune this procedure. Only by working with the best manufacturing companies and pushing their skills to the maximum could a shirt of such high quality be produced.

We are proud to say that this kind of production is only possible in Europe, especially in Germany. Here, many years of experience, engineering skills and curiosity form the basis for the development of a classic product like the shirt, which is equipped with an innovative unique selling point.

We are excited about this process and are sure that you will be just as enthusiastic about this shirt as we are. It is a sign of the highest quality and craftsmanship and will give you many years of pleasure.

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